Chiles en Nogada are a seasonal dish from Puebla that is prepared during the months of July, August and September, when the traditional ingredients are ripe and ready to be enjoyed in the preparation of the dish. Chiles en Nogada are related to the first Mexican emperor in whose honor they were first prepared, and at the same time they are related to the consummation of Mexico’s independence. And each season of preparation of the Chiles takes us to taste history with a touch of nostalgia and culinary ecstasy.
Hence, when the poblano chili pepper appears in the markets of Puebla, along with fruits such as pear, peach, apple, a walnut called Castilla, and red pomegranate, it is time to get to work.
ORIGIN OF CHILES EN NOGADA
The Independence of Mexico was consummated by the insurgent leader Agustin de Iturbide, who arrived in Puebla on August 1821, under tricolor flag of the «Three Guarantees» (symbolized in green, white and red). Agustin had united all the insurgent armies and the Spanish forces that sympathized with the cause of independence under this flag. Then Puebla became the first Mexican city to swear the declaration of independence. The historic center of Puebla was decorated with ribbons and ornaments based on the colors of the tricolor flag to receive the liberating army and its leader. Spanish and Creole women from the city worked alongside the Augustinian nuns of the Santa Monica convent to prepare a sumptuous celebratory banquet. But the star dish would be a green poblano chile stuffed with fruit, battered and seasoned with a white sauce made of Castilla walnuts, which was a famous recipe of the nuns.
The seasoned chilies were enjoyed by Agustín de Iturbide and his entourage of officers, on a dish decorated like the tricolor flag, with the green color represented by the parsley leaves, the white color represented by the Nogada cover, and the red color by the pomegranate seeds. The dish was a success and pleased everyone. Agustín de Iturbide continued his journey to Mexico City to establish the new government under a provisional cabinet. Shortly thereafter, Agustín de Iturbide was crowned Emperor of Mexico and regent of the newly independent nation.
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